Striking a balance between opulence and elegance

It is rare that the Uncorked team is really impressed by a Champagne producer tasting. But when Christian from AR Lenoble visited us a fortnight ago we were bowled over by the distinctive flavours and delicate, harmonious structures of the champagnes on offer - we were sold.

Entirely family-owned since it was founded in 1920, the domaine is currently in the hands of sister and brother owners Anne and Antoine Malassagne. With only twelve people working there all year round, it is a properly small operation. Their largest holdings are in the fabulous Chardonnay grand cru of Chouilly, known for a richer style of fruit, more Meursault than Chablis. They also have Pinot Noir in Bisseuil and Pinot Meunier in Damery. They are devoted to vineyard health and biodiversity and beyond eliminating herbicides and pesticides they have introduced hedges, orchards, trees and 70,000 honey bees.

Cellar work is as careful as vineyard management. The intriguing use of a solera system (réserve perpétuelle) for the reserve wines brings extra complexity. Dosage is kept low, which allows the champagne to speak for itself. But don't take our word for it, come and try for yourself, on tasting from noon to 6:30. /NT