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Italy Producers
Name: Italy
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Argiano is many people’s touchstone Brunello. Tucked away in the far south-western limits of Brunello production, away from the main clusters of estates, the late Renaissance hilltop villa of Argiano looks down on its vineyards. Monte Amiata hulks nearby. It’s a spectacular site, with a long history of winemaking – there have been vineyards on this hill for at least 500 years.
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Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of Barolo’s most revered domaines. It was founded in 1919 by Giulio Mascarello, who had been trained by his father Bartolomeo, the cellarmaster at the Cantina Sociale di Barolo. In a novel move at the time, Giulio borrowed money and started his own winery. In those days it was still relatively easy to acquire great parcels in great vineyards. Giulio was followed by his son Bartolo, who had spent the war years fighting the Germans as a partisan in the Langhe hills.
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The rolling hills of Conegliano Valdobiaddene are the heartland, the Classico if you will of Prosecco production. But it isn`t just a monoculture. there are south-facing vineyards interspersed with forests on the northern slopes and meadows and fields in between.
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When we first visited Bruna Grimaldi in Grinzane Cavour, we felt we had met a young winemaker of real promise. Simone was doing everything you would want to see. all the vineyards converted to organics in 2014; the new but traditionally appointed winery; modern training, all married to a respect for the traditional culture and wines of Piedmont which comes from being the fourth generation farming these hills.
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If Bruno Giacosa is such a great winemaker, why has he only made wine in 16 out of the last 20 vintages? Honesty and integrity are vital elements of quality, and Bruno believed that in 91, 92, 94 and 06 he didn`t have the quality he needed to produce exceptional wines and so he declassified his single vineyard `crus` entirely. That takes both courage and integrity, and demonstrates why Bruno is taken so seriously. Now in his early eighties, this meticulous vigneron has worked in his family`s vineyards and cellars for almost seventy years.
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The Cabutto family bought the La Volta farm back in 1920. Nestled by La Volta castle (it`s known as the `abode of the devil` due to some particularly wild legends) the winery overlooks the town of Barolo. For an estate of its age and size - they control around 20 hectares of vines - it is hardly known in the UK at all. They work rigorously in the vineyards and while they follow a very traditional path, the cellars are bang up to date. Tasting here, you can see why these wines became so highly prized by other winemakers. (EE 10/07/19)
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Dott. G. Cappellano is a very singular company. They invented the medicalisation of Barolo with the Chinato and members of the family spent time in north Africa, especially Eritrea and Tunisia researching phylloxera-resistant vines. Teobaldo also began the custom that visiting critics should not score the wines, though they can write as expansive tasting notes as they like. His son and current incumbent Augusto continues that proud tradition. Ignore it and you`ll never visit again.
The wines themselves include a range og Barolo from grafted and ungrafted vines.
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Castello Romitorio went from Roman fort to monastery to stately home to fort again, all by the Rinascimento. Subsequently it led a shabby life and was completely abandoned after the Second World War. It was purchased, and an attempt at restoration begun in the 1970s, but in 1984 the Chia family bought it. Sandro - a famous artist - was the instigator who first rejuvenated the estate and now his son Filippo has for some time been working to realise the full potential. 2015 is perhaps the year that shows these great vineyards at their best.
