`Moi, j’aime les vins avec energie, fraicheur, vigueur.` The wines of Joseph Colin are tense and intense, complex and energetic - a little like the man himself. This is still a relatively new domaine, but you`d never know that from the quality of the wines. Since 2016 Joseph has cultivated his share of the Colin family vineyards, six hectares spread across Chassagne, Puligny and Saint Aubin. He resists what he sees as the classificatory straitjacket of biodynamic viticulture, but has nevertheless adopted many biodynamic practices. He never uses batonnage (which he believes can lead to fat and potentially oxidised wines) but does not rack off the gross lees; he says lees bring energy. He avoids sulphur in the winery, using only a small amount at bottling. (NT 08/08/23)