Francois Chidaine is undoubtedly the top grower in Montlouis, and surely one of the best Chenin producers anywhere. He is a second-generation winemaker who has, over the years, picked up some absolutely top parcels in his area. Working with a high proportion of old vines (many between 40 and 80 years of age) leads to a natural intensity and concentration in his wines. He was an early adopter of organics and biodynamics, though these days what he is most excited about is regenerative agriculture. no-till farming with a permanent cover crop. Apart from the (surprisingly large) environmental benefits, he insists that letting a vine settle into its undisrupted ecosystem ultimately leads to better terroir expression.

Choisille is a local term for a particular type of black flint. Many of François` best sites are on such soil, and his Choisilles cuvee blends fruit from three for a concentrated, focussed wine. Wine making is simple, pressing the fruit on arrival and usually fermenting in tanks with some aging in older 620 liter demi-muid barrels. This gives all the advantages of barrel aging with little of the intrusive flavours. (NT 17/07/23)