The 2019 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru, from vines on white and blue clay, has a backward nose that mixes struck flint with Granny Smith apples, suggesting old-school Chablis. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and beautifully composed, maybe the most harmonious of Droin’s Premier Crus. A little spiciness manifests on the finish. Superb. 93 points

The Droin holding is in Cote de Brechain on the border with Pied d’Aloue and the vrai Montée de Tonnerre triangle. There is plenty of marl here and the site benefits from the setting sun. The nose has a reductive, cooked flint character, but then thee follows a huge volume of fruit. A little, soft in the middle for the highest marks. 90-92 points

An equally pure and elegant nose is quite different as here there is much more smoky reduction to the citrus-inflected pear and shellfish scents. The rich yet nicely restrained medium weight flavors brim with minerality and excellent detail, all wrapped in a slightly more complex finish. This is only a touch better than the Vaulorent but overall, it`s just a bit more complete. 93 points