2018 Donnhoff Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg

Cool, rather restrained nose. Lots of chiselled fruit. Juicy. Lemon curd juice? 16.5+ points

The Leistenberg has the oldest vines of all the Dönnhoff parcels and they have really excelled in 2018. This beautiful Kabinett offers up a complex bouquet of white cherries, apple, salty slate, bee pollen and a lovely mix of spring flowers and fruit blossoms. On the palate the wine is medium-full, pure and filigreed, with its beautiful fruit tones stretched taught over its minerality, with bright, zesty acids and lovely lift and grip on the long and complex finish. Just beautiful. Drink 2022-2060. 93 points

Grown on grey clay slate soils on a steep southeast-facing site, this has a fresh nose of green apple. In the mouth it has evident sweetness (55g/l as it turns out - levels in 2018 were higher than usual), with more of that fresh apple but this time fleshed out with some richer honey and a hint of stone fruit. Despite this, it retains great balance thanks to its very present acidity. Barrel sample. Drink 2019 - 2035. 92 points

The 2018 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett is darker toned and ripe on the flinty nose, with its crushed stone aromas. Richer and more intense on the palate, this is an almost creamy-textured and persistently salty Leistenberg that is quite rich but still playful and stimulating. It`s just more generous and solemn on the palate. Perhaps more a Spätlese style but very stimulating in fact. Tasted in July 2019. This is riper and more powerful than the 2017. 92 points