The 2017 Xinomavro Ecosystem Reserve Vielles Vignes Barba Yannis Single Block was aged for 24 months in new French barriques and comes in at 13.94% alcohol. By "old vines," the winery means "ungrafted bush vines" from 1919. Nervy, elegant and showing beautiful mid-palate finesse, this adds flavor and a long, juicy finish as well. The dominant feature here just now, though, is the acidity, which is high enough to cause a little initial mouth pucker while it lifts the fruit. It seems light and bright. The wine seems up to the task of integrating the acidity, but you are going to want to cellar this for a couple years to allow it to settle down and come together in various ways. The fruit needs to become more expressive. Alpha Estate is on a roll with this brand, and this looks like one of the more intriguing ones of late. That also means, as tends to happen, that this will need a little more time to show its stuff and it is not as clear where it is going. I`m bullish on this, but it needs to prove its case in the cellar. Let`s start here in terms of evaluation and drinking windows. 93 points

Full bottle, with a huge punt, 1,637 g. As ever, far too heavy. Single vineyard called Barba Yannis, 3.71 ha, on Amyndeon plateau, at 647 m/2,128 ft, north-western exposure, facing mount Vora. Planted ungrafted in 1919. Hand-harvested. Destemming, light crushing, cold soak – skin contact, alcoholic fermentation by indigenous flora isolated from the specific block, at gradually increasing temperatures, on lees for 24 months with regular stirring. 24 months in new French oak casks, medium grain, white-toasted and 12 months in bottle before release. No treatment or filtration before bottling. Mid ruby. Inviting and complex aroma that is so clearly Xinomavro – the untoasted oak is chosen to soften the grape-derived tannins but not add oak flavour. The aroma is similar to that of the Hedgehog Xinomavro 2018 just tasted but also more subtle and elegant, fresher and more piercing. There`s sweet red fruit and a herbal lift, as well as a lightly leathery, dried-cherry note. Still relatively primary. A powerful and remarkably fresh wine in the mouth. Intense, chewy and attention-grabbing without being overly heavy or rich. Structured, very dry but not drying tannins. Nowhere near ready to drink, nowhere near attaining its potential for complexity, even though it`s balanced. Masses of potential. The aromas already seductive. 17.5+ points