Cristom’s 2010 Pinot Noir Summers Reserve – as usual, sourced diversely, but in only small part from the Cristom estate – is pungently – and sweetly-scented with blond tobacco; fresh cherry and red currant; smoked meat; brown spices and white pepper, all of which then inform a tight, tart-edged, firm palate. It finishes with sappy, gripping and energetic intensity; not the most refined Pinot to be sure, but bursting with flavor and, I suspect, bursting to leave the starting gate and show that it can cover at least a decade’s distance with aplomb. 91 points