One of the few bits of Italy that has had some consistent wealth over the centuries, and so ready for take-off when Italy`s wine industry changed gear after the second world war. Mistakes were made and the one that is taking longest to repair is the clonal selection of Sangiovese, but gradually the high yielding vines are being swapped over for high quality ones. Sangiovese is the life blood of much of central Italy and provides the heart of Chianti and Scansano, all of Montalcino and Montepulciano and much else too. It isn`t the whole story as the northen coastal strip of Bolgheri provides terroir close to that of Bordeaux and much Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot and so on are grown here. White wines are a different matter – not historically taken very seriously. But improvements are being made here and even around San Gimigniano you can find wine to drink. Other white to look out for includes Vermentino from near the coast. (CW 23/01/12)