Final appointment of the day, and the cold was beginning to penetrate to the bone, but our first visit to Cailloux still induced excitement. We`d had a Centenaire `95 at La Beaugraviere, and then a 2001 Tradition at Le Mere Germaine and couldn`t help being reminded of Chateau Rayas - or rather its remarkable resemblance to top-class Pinot Noir. Having finally deduced which property it was (it`s in the centre of Chateauneuf, but with no signposts - no markings at all - and surprisingly tatty), we were greeted by Andre Brunel himself. A quick handshake, a quick once over, and he was off - I`d missed my photo opportunity - it was as if we`d passed muster, or maybe he just wanted to escape the biting cold. We were left with his gently-mannered assistant Didier who took us to the grandest cellar (barely less scruffy than the neglected yard it opened off) to taste the wines. (AR 03/2007)