The Fontodi winery has a commanding view down into the Conca d’Oro, the ‘Golden Shell’. With elevation, aspect, clay and schist soils, and a local climate that encourages sharp variation between hot, dry days and cool nights, this amphitheatre of a valley is prime vinegrowing territory. It lies just south of the town of Panzano, in the Chianti Classico heartland. Giovanni Manetti moved here as a child when his father bought the estate; as a teenager, he worked in the winery after school. When he took over in the 1980s, his rigorous approach to viticulture helped establish Fontodi as one of Tuscany’s leading estates. He converted the estate to organic viticulture; today, he also follows biodynamic practices. Fertiliser comes from a herd of cows.

For many years Manetti chose to raise his Chianti Classico in old French barriques, on the grounds that ‘French oak softens the astringency of Sangiovese; I would prefer to see people using French barriques to soften the wine rather than using 20% international varieties.’ These days, though, he uses a mixture of barriques and botte, and is experimenting with amphorae – and he feels he is being rewarded with a more ‘Tuscan’ identity as a result. There are two Gran Selezione Chiantis. Vigna del Sorbo comes from the eponymous single vineyard the Manettis planted when they first arrived in 1968. San Leolino is the result of recent historical research; the steep slope below the San Leolino Church looked ideal for vines, but Manetti was refused permission to plant there. Eventually, he found a 15th century painting which showed vines planted exactly there, and the consorzio relented. Fontodi is also responsible for one of Italy’s best known wines. Flaccianello delle Pieve is made from a selection of pure Sangiovese from the estate’s best parcels. (NT 03/04/24)