Another wine that starts lean and adds plumpness, this is an estate that has returned to sparkling form after a period in the doldrums. In fact it is only 35 years since the whole estate and vineyards had to be reinstated from scratch; the vines have an average age of 25 years. Merlot is 80% and Cabernet Franc 15%, as befits a property adjacent to Cheval-Blanc. Michel Rolland is the consulting oenologist but at this property the trademark overripe lushness is avoided./CW