Sesti olive oil: punchy, peppery, fresh and fruity

14 Jun 2018

It might seem odd for a wine shop to run an olive oil offer, but then some of the finest Tuscan wine producers we work with also have an olive oil in their portfolio. These are often allocated as stringently as their wines - some years we barely secure enough for staff use. But this year, despite the low-yielding 2017 Tuscan olive harvest, we have secured a more substantial parcel of oil from one of our most-loved producers, Sesti. Giuseppe Sesti and his daughter Elisa take as much pride in their extra virgin olive oil as they do in their wines, and they cultivate their olive trees as carefully and respectfully as they do their vines, on land which has never seen any chemical treatments.

To get them at their best, olives need to be hand-picked. Machine picking or shaking the branches with sticks causing olives to fall leads to bruised fruit, and will bring in the under and over-ripe olives along with the ripe. As olives mature, they change in colour from green to black (so green olives have been picked earlier than black). The Sestis hand harvest, and pick when half the olives are still green and half have turned black, for flavour complexity. They blend three classic Tuscan olive varieties, Corregiolo, Leccino and Moraiolo. Corregiolo olives bring the most robust flavours, spicy and nutty, Moraiolo are the most delicate and subtly flavoured, with Leccino sitting somewhere in the middle.

To make top quality oil, the olives need to be processed quickly - once they are off the tree, acids will build up as the olives start to deteriorate. The olives are first ground into a paste, then the paste is pressed. It's the first press that gives the best quality oil - the term 'extra virgin' applied to oil means from the first press. If you heat olive paste during pressing, you will extract more oil, but it also causes flavour degradation. Sesti's oil is cold pressed at a family run olive press 15 minutes away from their estate. They only use the first press in the oil. Their 2017 oil is pretty classic in style, full of aromas of cut grass and artichoke, with the finish packing a powerful peppery punch.

One last note! Unlike the best wine, olive oil doesn't improve with age - over time, its flavours will fade. So buy the most recent harvest and enjoy the oil over its first year, while it's fresh and at its most pungent. Come and try before you buy - we'll have Sesti's 2017 extra virgin olive oil on tasting from noon today. And not just oil! To celebrate en primeur season, we'll also have 4 bottles of Bordeaux on tasting. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately