If you've never heard of the late Giuseppe Quintarelli look away now. If you have, you'll want to try some of his wines; if you've ever tasted them, you'll need to have some more. There are other interesting producers in Valpolicella, but none that has been legendary over a sixty year period - and none who has made these wines. When I visited I was lucky he was out as he famously didn't like selling and these gems are so rarely found outside the region. Never before have we had the opportunity to buy wines directly from his small cellars. They are a place of alchemy, many different sized casks fashioned from various woods with even the basic wines sleeping in them for years. Everything is in stupidly small quantities, of course, and prices are - I can tell you from many shopping outings in Italy looking for these - very reasonable indeed. /CW