Sometimes rules have a basis in fact and those are the ones best broken. Two rules I wish weren't so clearly immutable are: all Pinot Noir has to be expensive; and you can't get decent Californian wine below £20. Here we have a wine that breaks both with ease and some aplomb. So how do they do it? Grace Bridge is made by Scotto Family Cellars, who are by no means the biggest Californian producer, but aren't the tiniest either. They have good vineyards and know how to manage them effectively too. Their wine benefits from economies of scale and they have chosen to produce Grace Bridge in a drinkable style, not dark coloured, jammy and overextracted.

So how does it taste? First, don't be afraid to throw this in the fridge for half an hour before serving. Or take chilled on a picnic or to the barbecue. There's plenty of red fruit and supple texture with coated tannins - even some acidity. This Pinot has depth and is very versatile with food. I've had it with salmon, with burgers, with lamb, and with cheese. Not in the same meal. It's a great summer and autumn red and at less than a tenner in our case it's a bargain. There's free delivery on orders of three cases or more. /CW