In 1975 Tim Hamilton Russell bought a 170-hectare property in the Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven and Earth) Valley, overlooking the seaside town of Hermanus, and began experimental plantings of vines. His son, Anthony, took over in 1991 and narrowed the focus of the estate to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay: a single bottling of each, produced entirely from their own 52 hectares of estate fruit. This small estate very quickly became a standard-bearer for the region as an appellation gathered around them, drawn by the potential demonstrated by Hamilton Russell.
Emul Ross has been winemaker at Hamilton Russell since 2015. He was previously assistant to Gottfried Mocke at Chamonix, and he has brought meticulous attention to detail, along with a healthy desire to do as little as possible in the winery, to the established methodology at Hamilton Russell. Vineyard practice has been organic since 2014.
The Chardonnay marries generosity with intensity. Electric on release, it transforms into a deep, nutty style as it reaches 10 years, and will age far beyond that point under optimal conditions. It is hand-harvested early in the morning, whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight before going into 300l barrels (28% new), where it spends 9 months on the lees. The barrels for both wines are all tailor-made, with a 'light and long toast' and an extra year of seasoning, from Francois Frères (cooper to DRC in Burgundy). Their Pinot Noir is a model of restraint and elegance, regularly confused for Burgundy in blind tastings. Fermentation with 15% whole bunches adds aromatic intensity and structure, and the wine sees 10 months in 228l barrels (32% new). The result is a dark-fruited, savoury style which ages superbly. These wines offer exceptional value for money, and deserve a spot in your cellar. /JH
