The extreme elegance of an iconic Barolo
The Mascarello Monprivato can be elusive at first. There's a disconnect between the pale colour and the powerfully intense bouquet. The crystalline tannins are set against incredibly delicate fruit. It is hard to unravel the secrets of the bouquet, but as it begins to unfurl, it is astounding. In the heart of Castiglione Falleto, the Monprivato cru is the jewel in the glittering crown at Giuseppe Mascarello. Every vintage is distinct here, but vintage after vintage Monprivato proves itself a true Barolo grand cru.
Walter Speller (writing on jancisrobinson.com) has 2015 as a year of 'aplomb, concentration, quality'. It was a hot vintage, but without the heat spikes that can stress vines and cause them to shut down. Late-ripening Nebbiolo especially enjoyed the benefit of the cool autumn evenings, bringing a freshness to the fruit, complementing the sweet succulence in the wine.
It's a joy to taste. Aromas of tobacco, mint and rose compete and mingle with ripe cherries and strawberries. Mighty but very fine-grained tannins lead through to an utterly melting finish. 2015 Mascarello Monprivato shows the precision, structure and sheer dizzying elegance of a wine with the potential to age for decades. /NT
