2014 Burgundy: Vosne-Romanée & Nuits-St-Georges

21 Jan 2016

Gregory Gouges of Nuits-St-Georges

There are a lot of stellar growers in Vosne-Romanée. There are a lot of stellar terroirs too, but demand is high and those terroirs are pretty small, so rationing is done by price. It is true that many wines are amazing and attention to detail throughout the year is very high since growers defend their reputation and standing. Succession planning is also carefully attended to as the younger generation takes on greater responsibility. Such is the case at Domaine Jean Grivot, where Etienne and daughter Mathilde are more of a team than ever. Etienne was very happy with the vintage, the first where a new destemming machine was used. We got the impression it cost more than most houses, but it is more accurate and gentler on the fruit.

At Meo-Camuzet, Jean-Nicolas was entertaining some lively private clients, who had obviously lunched well. Growers hate this but his mood didn't affect the quality of the wines at all. He has reduced the amount of stems going into the vats and the supple and perfumed wines showed very well.

Nuits-St-Georges is the business end of the Cotes de Nuits. I'll be barred if I mention the lack of glamour again, especially as our growers from the village make wines that while still Nuits in every respect, have a feminine side on show more than used to be the case. Neal Martin thinks Robert Chevillon has made the best wines of the vintage.

Gregory at Gouges is hard on the Chevillon heels. The wines seem to be more expressive every year. And now that at least one young MW has discovered what youth and reduction are in cask samples, they're getting more critical love too. We thought they were absolutely terrific back in November and they showed very well indeed at our tasting last week.

View the wines listed so far

Media tasting notes and scores can be found on the website by clicking on the wines below