2013 Climens, Rauzan, Canon, Lynch, Calon

16 Apr 2014

Marigold drying at ClimensWine writers strike, Bordeaux brought to its knees 

The 2013 vintage has caused some UK wine writers acute distress. 'I'm not going. Oh, alright then, I'll just send the post boy'. Or, 'I'll go, but I won't tell anybody what I learnt'. But the Bordelais have kept courage in the face of this wildcat industrial action and the region still seems to be operating. The strike was broken by Neal Martin, disguised in a multicoloured beard, which is probably why we didn't recognise him. I'm Neal's sternest critic but his thoughtful, clearly written vintage assessment, which is well worth reading, is a mature masterpiece. And no, I'm not sucking up. His laptop still gets in the way at tastings, and as for most of his music reccos...

Neal's message is loud and clear: primeur does work - but only at the right price. And so it is that Angludet, Batailley, Calon-Segur, Canon, Lynch and Rauzan-Segla have sold, while Cos, Montrose and Pontet-Canet haven't. It doesn't matter that quantities are small and quality surprisingly high. Negociants, merchants and customers have all lost money on recent vintages of certain wines and have no desire to do so again. The vintage (for reds) is one of the weakest of the last decade and should be priced accordingly.

Berenice Lurton appears to have read Neal's report and decided it was targetted at her. But this is a strong vintage for the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes, and 2013 Climens appears to be the qualitative equal of the superb wines made here in 2011 (current market price £700) and 2007 (£775). It is a fantastic melange of fruit, minerality, savoury notes and wonderfully clean botrytis all freshened up with bright acidity. Berenice explained that it was picked over a month and that their biodynamic regime was of paramount importance (our picture shows marigold drying for the biodynamic preparations). Yquem is the wine of the vintage but will doubtless be priced accordingly. Climens is an extraordinary combination of similar high quality - and a completely unexpected low price. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation for shipment spring 2016

Vintage Description Cs Sz Bt Sz Cs Bts Cs ib Cs inc Bt inc
2013 ready Rauzan-Segla (Margaux)
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6x 75cl 1 0 £225.00 - - Buy