2012 port declarations

Fladgate & Symington single quintas; Noval vintage

2012 is a jolly good vintage that occurred in the wrong part of the vintage declaration cycle. With what is likely to be only a couple of exceptions, most of the ports declared from 2012 will be single quintas. The early exception to this is Quinta do Noval, where Christian Seely and colleagues have raised a superb vintage port in small quantities.

Why mostly single quintas? The year started with a dry winter and a wet spring with disrupted flowering, which reduced yields. This was followed by a cool summer of drought conditions - the second driest year on record - that stressed the vines into making a small yield of fresh, balanced and structured wines. So the quality is very high, but quantities are sadly lacking. The Symingtons have produced only 1,500 six-packs of Vesuvio, 900 of Senhora da Ribeira.

While single quintas don't carry the prestige of a vintage port declaration in people's minds, they do provide excellent quality and value as well as ageability. They could make great christening presents. Coming straight after the success of 2011 and with very small yields, the bigger houses need fruit for their entire ranges, so they have sacrificed a full vintage in favour of the single quintas.

Three of the wines (Roeda, Guimaraens and Vargellas) are open for tasting at the shop now and for as long as the samples last. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation; available autumn 2014