Arlaud, Dujac Fils & Pere, Taupenot-Merme
This is a village I always approach with a high expectation - and to be safe - of disappointment as well as pleasure. This year there was both in equal measure: disappointment at the lack of wine; joy at its quality. Morey wines have that spicey element on top of the cherry fruit.
Regarding volume and yield there are very different stories in this village. Taupenot-Merme was one of the real highlights of the week. Romain said that they were spoiled this year and were only 15% down on a normal vintage. Since the wines were excellent this is a bit of a win win and should be on eveybody's list of target domains. Most wines had yet to be racked and were thus showing a touch of reduction but fruit shone through, as did delineation from village to village and site to site. But the wines didn't just demonstrate terroir, as Romain said - he does understand that wine is for pleasure, not a geological exercise.
We went from the almost empty cellar at Lambrays to the slightly fuller one at Arlaud. Who says Burgundians are traditional and hidebound? The Arlauds set up a caterpillar catching competition for a week in one of their grands crus and they reckon they got an extra barrel of wine. That's biodynamics for you! They had a careful sorting in the vineyard for roasted grapes and non-grape material and another triage at the cellar, just for perfection.
And all the Moreys we tasted from growers in other villages were characteristic and characterful. They all had attack and energy and length and minerality. /CW
Tomorrow
Chambolle-Musigny & Vosne-Romanee
