2011 Talbot, Brane, Macquin, Canon, Ducru, LLC, VCC, Carruades, Cheval Blanc, Ausone

7 Jun 2012

Henri Lurton of Brane-CantenacA mini-rush of releases this week coupled with DBR's Duhart and Carruades during last week's Vinexpo Hong Kong and a trickle after our last email of 23 May means the 2011 campaign is all over except for Le Pin and Yquem. Word from the Far East is that interest in the campaign on the Chinese mainland has been close to zero while in Hong Kong buying has been "measured". All of which is good news for those few brave buyers of 2011's greatest wines: prices are coming in at the lower end of estimates and often below that of any physical vintage. There are prices in today's list which in years to come will seem very low. Selected notes below on our favourites. /AR

Talbot: 'Yet another example of the impressive quality of the St Julien classed growths in 2011, this is a deceptively forward blend, showing appealing aromatics, filigree tannins, cassis and cigar box notes and a fine, balanced finish with good oak integration. This won't keep for ages, but it's a delicious, old-fashioned claret. 8+ years. 94 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com

Brane-Cantenac: 'Rich garnet hue. Elegant fruit and floral scents on the subtle nose. Smooth, with lovely tactile finesse and gorgeous fragrances on the substantial palate. Unfurling plenty of taste after the mid-palate before ending on a deliciously juicy and lingering length. Almost Burgundy-like in its style - defined more by tactile and fragrant nuances than by strength and power. 90 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

'A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, the Pavie Macquin has a very sensual bouquet, very pure with raspberry, wild strawberry and red cherries. This is a very pretty nose and the oak is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, an impressive ball of sweet red fruit at its centre and fine, almost filigree tannins at its centre. I like the focus, the joie-de-vivre of Nicolas Thienpont's wine. This is an exceptional wine for the vintage. 93-95 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

'The Canon 2011 is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, picked from 7th until 17th September. One of Saint Emilion's highlights, it has a lovely bouquet with wild strawberry and dark plum aromas that are very well defined and quite powerful in the context of the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, a silky smooth texture and a very composed, very pure finish that delicately caresses the mouth. The acidity is nigh on perfect, lending it a sense of weightlessness. This is a great 2011 and one of Saint Emilion's top crus. 93-95 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal
'One of the vintage's stars, the 2011 Ducru Beaucaillou is a riveting blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. It boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of creme de cassis, licorice, subtle wood smoke and spring flowers, a surprising, full-bodied mouthfeel, and stunning intensity, purity, symmetry and length. Production at this estate used to be 12,000-15,000 cases, but after instituting a strict selection in addition to the smallest yields ever at this vineyard, it is down to 9,000 cases. The 2011 has considerable tannin, but it is soft and well-integrated. It should drink well for 20+ years. Readers should also be aware of just how sensational the second wine can be. 93-95 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Leoville-Las Cases: Rich purplish crimson. Elegant, deep and clean nose of ripe fruit - revealing dainty notes of vanilla with a hint of cherry upon swirling. More expressive than ever before en primeur. Delicately threaded and fleshy entry leading to a mouth-filling, generously aromatic and full-bodied palate through to the superbly regal finish laced with powerful yet elegant and well-coated tannins. Utterly delicious. Alcohol content: 13.4% - IPT:81 (75 for the 2010). A blend of 76% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot and 12% cabernet franc. Yield: 27hl/ha. A beauty. 94 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

Vieux Chateau Certan: 'After the Cabernet Francless 2009 and 2010, this is more what I consider to be a classic VCC nose and as Alexandre, unlike those previous vintages that gives you everything up front, this is far more intellectual and enigmatic with hints of mineral laden fruit, limestone and small dark cherries. It is beautifully defined yet distant. The palate is succinctly balanced with crisp acidity, exceptional balance and superb backbone. There is an undercurrent of masculinity, a saline tincture, crushed stone and a touch of dried herbs and yet these are just fleeting hints. It has enormous length and it is one of the very few that could be on the same ethereal plateau as the 2009 and 2010 and perhaps one day... even better. 96-98 points.' - Neal Martin, erobertparker.com/winejournal

Cheval Blanc: 'Bright rich purplish crimson. Lush, incredibly clean nose, laden with fruit. Immediately broad and generous entry boasting clean taste on the powerful and rich palate - dense, voluptuous, a touch austere, full, lingering and backed by terrific tannins. Magnificent weave of tannins on finish, with sublime aromas taking over the palate. A grand vin indeed, whose grade is likely to go up at the elevage. 94-95 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com

'Not surprisingly, Alain Vauthier's 2011 Ausone is one of the greatest wines he has produced. I know this sounds impossible, but it is the reason why I spend so much time tasting and reflecting on what is in front of me. The 2011 could turn out to be better than his 2009 – sacre bleu! Probably the wine of the vintage, the 2011 exhibits a murky, inky, blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of creme de cassis, plum sauce, crushed rocks (primarily chalk), acacia flowers and hints of graphite, truffles and damp forest floor. The riveting aromatics are followed by a wine that does not let the taster down in the mouth. Full-bodied with extraordinary purity, oozing richness and well-integrated velvety tannins, acidity, oak and alcohol, this is another superb achievement by Vauthier from this phenomenal site on the decomposed limestone hillsides of St-Emilion. Possibly the longest-lived wine of the vintage, it should evolve for 30-40 years. 96-100 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

View all 2011 Bordeaux en primeur