“The heart of Dom Pérignon” - Richard Geoffroy

Richard Geoffroy isn't just an amazing winemaker. We discovered last Tuesday that he's also a formidable communicator, and surmised that he's a great leader. Dom Perignon's recent rise owes nothing (or at least little) to marketing pizzazz and flashy presentation; it owes a great deal to this diminutive man, Chef de Cave, "Creator of Vintages." He pushes the boundaries and achieves what seems impossible. And so he introduced us to 2003 Dom Perignon.

The 03 Dom is a perfect synthesis of what Richard calls the exuberance of a solar vintage and the natural leanness of the Dom Perignon style. To achieve it he and his team had to pick early and work very delicately in the cellar, pressing fast and light and constantly attentive. Wine like this doesn't make itself. The wine is fantastically drinkable now, one of the most attractive, if infant, top Champagnes we've tasted. Yet it has the Dom Perignon steel and will age triumphantly.

Dom Perignon's got form for this: Geoffroy recalls 47, 59 and 76 - all solar vintages, all with less than what is considered "normal" acidity - and all aging brilliantly. Richard tasted the 1947 a little while ago and realised that the staff then just went for it - though that 47 was the marque's first standalone vintage, so there was none of the pressure which is attached today. Courageously, it has been his philosophy since then, so that the 2003 marks the beginning of a new chapter in the development of the wine. Noted Champagne writer and critic Richard Juhlin agrees completely, saying - 'It is perhaps surprising to many people that my first choice for this year is Dom Perignon, 96 points. However it is actually quite natural if one considers that they have far and away the most extensive acreage to choose from and can control their style better than anyone else.' He also made the point that 2003's low yields concentrated the wine immensely. /CW