Buy now before the critics score!

Ugolaia is a distinctive single plot wine from only 1.5 hectares of low yielding, old vines, which formerly provided most of the material for the previous generation of Riservas. It is located on some of the oldest soil in the region and on one of the grandest sites, giving it a particular and identifiable personality. Ugolaia's made in only the best of the best years and ranks with the finest in the DOCG, though it does repay ageing. 42 months in large, old botti and up to six months in chestnut mean that this has great cellaring potential. These wines are far from the black, inky and oaky concoctions recently fashionable but reveal terroir and the special qualities of the commune's own Sangiovese clone. Superb stuff: like the best Baroli and Burgundies Lisini's wines are a fabulous chance to enjoy the best of a unique and fabulous terroir/variety conjunction.

2007 is a rich vintage which beautifully counterpoints the finesse of the Lisini character. Their other wines from the vintage have already been acclaimed by the critics; now's the time to get hold of this extraordinary wine at the best price and availability before it receives its own rating! /CW