Winter pear and apricot with prominent pip and pit piquancy as well as an underlying suggestion of wet stone make for a bittersweet and relatively austere performance from Donnhoff’s 2011 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling trocken, with hints of lemon peel, iodine, and lilac-like inner-mouth perfume adding intrigue. There is a welcome sense of primary juiciness in the finish, mitigating both the wine’s sense of austerity and of breadth; and its intriguing elements are indeed tenacious. This should prove worth following over the next several years. 89 points