Ripe black fruits in the Lafon 2006 Volnay Santenots du Milieu saturate the palate while combining refreshing and invigorating brightness with depth of carnal and mineral dimensions. This shows formidable but finely-grained structure without giving up more than a little of the vivacity and penetration that characterized the corresponding Champans. I would definitely not fear laying this away for a few years but would target 6-8 years for drinking it. 91 points