In Murcia in south-eastern Spain, Jumilla is a hot, dry, sunny landscape of alternating valleys and peaks. Most grape varieties would struggle in the 40-degree summer heat, but slow-to-ripen Monastrell laps it up. Most wine here is made by co-operatives, and the area is traditionally known for its unfashionably dark, tannic wines. Many vineyards are being uprooted in favour of more profitable crops (hello, almonds, nice to meet you). But family winery Casa Castillo have bucked many trends, and put Jumilla firmly on the fine wine map. In its current form, it is three generations old. (Though their cellar is much older, having been built in 1870 by French prisoners of war). When Jose Maria Vicente took over in 1985, he removed the international grape varieties that had been taking over the vineyard and focused on old-vine Monastrell. These are bush vines planted on the chalk-and-gravel slopes of the Sierra de El Molar, and the oldest are pie franco, ungrafted. Winemaking is straightforward and traditional. Grapes are hand-harvested and transferred as fast as possible to the winery. Some whole bunches are submerged in grape must, leading to a semi-carbonic maceration. Fermentation is in concrete or stainless steel, and the bodega has an array of foudres and barrels to raise the wine. (NT 06/08/25)