Famous for organic grain and tomato farming - and yes, the tomatoes are green harvested - Paolo and Paola decided to make wine. This has also been organically cultivated and now certification is being sought. They eschew the Primitivo variety, thinking it coarse and earthbound. Instead, they grow varieties like Nero di Troia, Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Everything, especially harvest, is done by hand and as gently as possible. The vineyards are at about 300 metres altitude and are on ideally poor, stony, clay soils and unirrigated. The results of all this is a range of wines that is deft and quite elegant, reflecting central and southern Italy at its best. (CW 02/06/14)