Yves Gangloff: riffing on Syrah and Viognier

2014 Condrieu and 2013 Côte-Rôties pre-shipment offer

Yves, originally from Alsace, is a man full of curiosity and drive. When he ended up in Condrieu it had been to see his artist brother - who by the way painted the labels for Yves' wines. But he stayed, got a job with Delas and met his wife-to-be Mathilde. He is a guitar player and like many such has a large collection of guitars, including some old and rare. Most guitar players learn by observation and are essentially self-taught, exploring their abilities and their instruments.

After a few years in 1982, the couple started to buy vineyards and became growers. But in 1987 their negociant customer went bust and they had to become winemakers in a hurry. Thank goodness Yves is a natural autodidact, super bright and precise. Ever since, their wine has become sought-after, both the elegant and finely chiselled reds and the fuller, more opulent whites. Very sadly Mathilde died in 2011 but Yves continues to make the intensely fruity wines for which he has become renowned, even among his peers.

The Barbarine has a little Viognier in the blend and spends just short of two years in 300 litre casks. It has silky structure and retains all the floral and lifted aromatics of the best Syrahs. The La Sereine is 100% Syrah and the vineyard is over 60 years old. It sees two years in barriques, and 50% of them are new, but it is not heavily marked by oak at all. It is classic, peppery Syrah, with a distinct mineral note from its granite and schist terroir. His Condrieu is ripe but structured and balanced with pear and stone fruit character. It spends getting on for a year in large barrels, about a third of which are new, but easily mops up the wood flavours.

This is a rare chance to get a small allocation from this amazing grower and I'm only sorry we can't offer a rocking horse to go with it. /CW

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment autumn 2015

Cote-Rotie La Barbarine: 'Dark red. Perky, open, almost flashy nose, one of really good vigour and appeal, bundles of red berries available – this is a veritably good start. The palate starts well, presents a run of smoky red berries with closely inset tannins that have a lissom elegance. There is a touch of flowers on the second half. Charm in the glass here – this is stylish a go-go. It is a wine for more instant drinking than some – it will offer max pleasure. Drink 2017 - 2028. 4.5 stars.'

Cote-Rotie La Sereine Noire: 'Dark red, attractive robe. This has an elegantly concentrated nose, gives airs of smoky black berries, has a light floral “powdering”; this bouquet has good shape and potential. The palate bears concentrated depth of berry fruit, with evident tannins leaving a dentelle, toothsome crunch as it finishes. It is all well rolled up together, and has iron from its origins present. The length is good and fine, the aftertaste peppery. 50% Mollard, 50% Côte Rozier, 50% new oak. Drink 2018 - 2031. 4.5 stars.'

- John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com, February 2015