Spain's top producer in a great vintage

You might expect Spain's finest wine estate - especially one with Vega Sicilia's history - to be, perhaps, a little hidebound. Nothing could less represent reality. Vega is constantly on a mission to refine and improve what they do.

2009 was an excellent year in Ribera del Duero, with a summer similar to that which produced some exceptional port wines further down the river. It was very warm and dry during July and August, with Ribera's altitude helping keep the extremes under control. Then in September the weather changed and a short period of rain refreshed the soil and relieved the hydric stress on the vines. The vines were then able to push forward with an even ripening of the fruit.

Valbuena is made from what most producers would consider mature vines, but which Vega think of as young. The Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and (5%) Merlot were harvested in superb condition and the resulting wine is powerful yet restrained, with layers of complex fruit and a plush texture. This is a lovely, complete wine that won't need a great deal of further ageing to be hugely enjoyable. It's one of the best young Valbuenas we've tasted. /CW