98 points robertparker.com, just £270/6 in bond
The fog-shrouded vineyard sites of the far westerly Californian coastal headlands are hard to work and expensive to manage, but what Steve Kistler realised early on in his career is that they can also be responsible for exquisite wine. While the wind, storms and fogs challenge the vineyards, they also provide for slower, more steady ripening, and longer hang-time. These help a wine find the structure and minerality that Steve insists is the key to longevity.
Steve has form. He learned his craft at Ridge Monte Bello, where he absorbed Paul Draper's purist, scientific approach. At his Kistler Vineyards label, he spent years producing acclaimed Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But those coastal ridges were calling. Steve sold Kistler Vineyards, moved to Bodega, and launched his Occidental label. He has been a key figure in opening up the western wine frontier.
After a winter with little rain, 2021 saw a dry growing season across California. In the vineyards, that meant small berries and low yields, and thus concentrated, intense wines. When you marry that to the natural elegance of wines made from fruit grown in marginal maritime sites, the result is explosive. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available Spring 2024
