Paolo Scavino: cutting edge, with a traditional slant

13 Mar 2014

Enrica ScavinoScavino and his daughters stand out from their peers for their never-ending search for quality

Enrico Scavino, the third generation of the Scavino family at this estate, together with his daughters, the fourth, has worked tirelessly, experimenting, assessing, refining every aspect of the operation in order to achieve the purest expression of their sites. Traditionalists may dismiss these wines but they do so at their peril: they are savoury, complex and true to their origin, and are capable of ageing beautifully. What's more, the Scavinos are an intelligent family, and make informed choices which incorporate not just the new, but the best of the old, too.

And as the winemaking has evolved so too have the estate's holdings. From 2007, Monvigliero in Verduno joined the line-up, having previously been farmed and added to the generic Barolo, then a (very expensive) second parcel of Rocche dell'Annunziata in La Morra. Next, there's to be a Prapo, the cru in Serralunga.

All this is excellent news for Barolo lovers. Prices have barely moved in the last half dozen vintages (2004 Fiasc was released at £300 for six) but their 2010s are at least the equals of any previous year. 'A vintage of exceptional quality: bright and vibrant, elegant, very harmonious,' the family says; 'They are precise and complex, there is freshness, minerality and fruit. The tannins are fully ripe and the acidity gives great definition.' /AR