Mature claret “similar to Lynch-Bages” for a tenner a bottle*

21 Sep 2011

Pre-shipment offer of pristine, ex-Chateau 2001 Lanessan
*£10 a bottle before tax; £14.17 inc UK duty & VAT

They have a history of being laid back at Lanessan. They were never going to make it into the 1855 classification since then-owner, Louis Delbos, didn't think it worth submitting samples to the brokers organising it. Good job he wasn't around to learn that none other than Robert Parker would come to consider it worthy of fifth-growth status as well as “somewhat similar in style and character to Lynch-Bages”.

Located immediately south of St-Julien, opposite Gruaud-Larose, the wines have never fallen victim to the fashion of new oak; they only replace 5% of their barriques each year. They have a classic Medocain line up of grape varieties and make, in the words of Neal Martin, very decent, good, English claret.

This 2001 is for drinking: don't squirrel it away, but keep a couple of cases in the utility room for kitchen suppers and weekend lunches. It's very like a St-Julien in style, some cigar box, graphite minerality and cassis fruit tinged with a touch of the game bag, all in full view and not disguised by layers of vanilla and toasty aromas. /CW

Offered subject to confirmation for delivery beginning of November