New vintage of 'Australia's greatest Chardonnay'

You would be forgiven for thinking that, after a fortnight of Chardonnay, we might have had enough. But these are very different animals. The terroir is unique - both in terms of soil and climate - and it is as distinctive within Australia as it is globally. The ancient granite gravels provide ideal drainage and aspect and the Indian and southern oceans give stability of temperature and protection from frosts. The growing season is long and nearly all the rain falls - as it did for the 2010 harvest - in the cooler months. So viticulturally this is easy country with a history of winemaking that extends right back to the 19th century.

Leeuwin is younger than that, of course. It was planned and planted in the early 1970s, with huge input from Robert Mondavi and, though the first commercial vintage was in 1979, the 1980 Art Series Chardonnay was winning acclaim and plaudits very quickly. Leeuwin's choice of vine was the Gingin clone from the US. This not only has naturally low yields, but is susceptible to millerandage and grows tiny berries that are a big part of the intensity of the wines. Arguably Australia's best Chardonnay, Art Series is no surly, truculent wine. You can drink this one young and indeed it is at its best during the first ten years or so. /CW

'The 2010 Art Series Chardonnay is redolent of warm peaches, toasted almonds and apple tart with hints of cedar and wet pebbles. Medium to full-bodied and very concentrated with layers of stone fruit, toast and nut flavors, it has a lively backbone of acidity, satiny texture and long finish. Approachable now it will drink to 2019+. 95+ points' - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Advocate