A Constant Craving 

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2009 (and a little bit of 2008)

"this wine is not only a labour of lust but it is also a work of genius" - Matthew Jukes

In winemaking terms we think of South Africa as part of the New World, but Klein Constantia in the Western Cape has a longer history than most "Old" World estates. By the 19th century the sweet wine of Constance had become mythical; Napoleon drank it in exile on St. Helena, Jane Austen recommended it for "its healing powers on a disappointed heart", and Baudelaire compared it to his lover's lips.

So historical Vin de Constance may be, but mired in tradition it is not. Current winemaker Matt Day, while conscious he is the custodian of a wine world treasure that will outlive him, is not scared to innovate, and likes to swap winemaking tips with Sandrine Garbay of Chateau d'Yquem in a never-ceasing quest for greater quality. His efforts have just been recognised by Tim Atkin's classifying Klein Constantia as a South African First Growth.

The 2009 Vin de Constance has a delightful freshness that lifts the aromas of apricot and candied citrus, whereas the 2008 is that little bit richer, with just a touch of smoke about it. Matthew Jukes has given the 2009 a score of 19/20++, his joint highest score since 1986, whilst writing that he also adores the "precocious, lush, ever-so-slightly-sl_tty 2008". Both are irresistibly drinkable, achieving the balance great sweet wines need to avoid becoming cloying. And while there's certainly no need at all to cellar them, they will mature gracefully if you can keep your hands off them for long enough.

Spoiler alert!
With no Vin de Constance made in 2010 and yields in 2011 down to half of what they were in 2008, this may be your last chance for some time to stock up on one of the world's great sweet wines. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; latest releases available early 2015

2009 Vin de Constance: 'It is made from shrivelled Muscat grapes which spend a few years hibernating in oak barrels before being bottled in quaint, ancient, unique flagons! It is one of the world’s greatest sweet wines (it’s in my top six). It is certainly the finest (unfortified) Muscat on the planet. It tastes like liquidised rainbows, unicorns, orange groves and comets combined. It also ages for an eternity, which serves to underline its mythical status. I have tasted every vintage since the modern era release of 1986 and they are all different, glorious and fascinating...an otherworldly backbone of amaro-style bitterness which completely blew me away. I am a vinous masochist and so I would love to see more and more of this thrilling element in VdC, in due course, because I adore the strictness which it brings to the mind-boggling orange brûlée fruit. The 2009 is wondrously corseted and this makes for compelling tasting. 19++/20 points' - Matthew Jukes, matthewjukes.com, September 2014

2008 Vin de Constance: 'With a residual sugar of “only” 150 grams, this is on the drier side of recent Vin de Constance releases. It also has a little less volatility than some. Caramel, quince, cinnamon spice, subtle oak, orange peel and acacia honey are thrillingly entwined on the palate here. Drink 2014-25. 96 points' - Tim Atkins, South Africa Special Report, 2014