Il Macchione – Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

16 Jan 2018

From great to greater

The new stewards at Il Macchione

We're often asked if we have any Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and too often have to say we don't. So it is a pleasure to welcome back the great wines of Il Macchione to our shelves. The last vintage of these wines we stocked was 2007, which was also the final vintage made by Robert Kengelbacher, the Swiss wine enthusiast who had been at the helm since the 1980s. His aim had always been to produce wine to satisfy his high expectations. Mission accomplished and retirement looming, he sold on to two new enthusiasts, Leonardo and Simone Abram. These two brothers had been scouring Tuscany and beyond for an estate to dedicate themselves to, and came upon Il Macchione at just the right moment.

They were not shy about making changes. The first thing they did was rip out the Merlot vines. Appellation rules demand at least 70% Sangiovese, while any balance can be made up from other local varieties or, more recently, international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah. But latterly there have been concerns that the use of international varieties has resulted in wines that are less recognizably Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Under Simone and Leonardo, Il Macchione is now 100% Prugnolo Gentile, the local Sangiovese clone. Converting the estate to biodynamics was a longer-term project, but they entirely believe the effort has been worth it.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is often characterised as being a little richer and less mineral than Chianti, and typically a little less bold and extracted than its other great Tuscan neighbour, Brunello. That's a fairly accurate description of where Il Macchione now sits, medium-weight, with classically Italian cherry fruit and a touch of musk. The riserva has slightly smokier depths. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately