Putting Montlouis on the map
The twin appellations of Vouvray and Montlouis face off across the River Loire. Both excel at Chenin Blanc. On the north bank, Vouvray is by some way the larger and the better-known, with its fame built mainly on a history of sweet styles. Montlouis is less well-known, but enjoys some top-class terroir and a dedicated set of growers who like to focus more on bone-dry styles. At the head of this pack is François Chidaine.
François is a second-generation winemaker who has, over the years, picked up some absolutely top parcels in his area. Working with a high proportion of old vines (many between 40 and 80 years of age) leads to a natural intensity and concentration in his wines. He was an early adopter of organics and biodynamics, though these days what he is most excited about is regenerative agriculture: no-till farming with a permanent cover crop. Apart from the (surprisingly large) environmental benefits, he insists that letting a vine settle into its undisrupted ecosystem ultimately leads to better terroir expression.
Choisille is a local term for a particular type of black flint. Many of François' best sites are on such soil, and his Choisilles cuvee blends fruit from three for a concentrated, focussed wine. Clos du Breuil comes from the most classic Montlouis terroir, a clay and flint mix laid over limestone; the rich but bone-dry palate belies the honey-and-chamomile bouquet. Les Bournais comes from a limestone-rich site, and is the most structured cuvee. François also makes a dry Chenin Blanc in Vouvray: Les Argiles. But because he is vinifying it across the river in Montlouis, appellation rules prohibit him labelling it as Vouvray. No matter. Fresh and concentrated, complex and savoury, it is a wine that punches well above its Vin de France label. And the Brut Nature is a traditional method sparkling Chenin Blanc; it is tense, lovely and lifted. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available Autumn 2023
