The new custodian of a very privileged vineyard
Cerbaiona is a name to conjure with in Montalcino. Tucked away in the eastern edge of the commune, this small, favoured estate has long produced some of the most sought-after of any Brunello, from only 3 hectares of old vines. Given that, it might seem odd that the estate has voluntarily declassified their 2015 Brunello into Rosso di Montalcino, producing no 2015 Brunello at all. After all, 2015 is widely rated as a Brunello vintage - yet the estate's 2015 Rosso di Montalcino is in fact 80% declassified Brunello. What's going on?
There's a new man in town here. When Cerbaiona founder Diego Molinara finally retired after the 2015 harvest, there was widespread concern about the estate's future. Yet in Matthew Fioretti, Cerbaiona has a new owner who aims high. When I visited in 2018, he was busy rebuilding the cellar, from the ground up; we had to walk across planks laid over the bedrock. He had planted fava beans among the vines to improve the soil. He was very carefully documenting the state of each vine, and the complex, diverse soils across the vineyard - they are a part of what makes Cerbaiona special. His commitment to both the past and future of Cerbaiona is palpable.
The decision to declassify the 2015 Brunello was part of his reach-for-the-stars approach. When the 2015 wines were aging in the cellar, Matthew had little doubt he would release both a Rosso and a Brunello. Yet when the time to bottle arrived, the cellar reconstruction was still underway. Not one to compromise on conditions, Matthew decided that meant there should be no Brunello this vintage. Which means Cerbaiona's 2015 Rosso enjoys a level of polish, refinement and potential that most Brunellos can only dream of. /NT
View all 2015 Brunello listed so far
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available imminently
To place an order, click on the wine name below, reply to this email, or call 020 7638 5998
Please note: our Bishopsgate shop is now closed, however we are still accepting orders for delivery via the website, by email and over the telephone. We are immensely grateful for all your support during this time.
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