Back from the brink: the original and best Gavi grape

6 Jun 2017

2015 Walter Massa Derthona

Now from Timorasso, northwest Italy's greatest white?

Those of you who frequent our Bishopsgate shop have probably spotted our interest in all that Italy can offer. We have always loved the Italian nobility of Brunello and Barolo but as interest turns near obsession we have cast our net ever wider. What makes Italian wine intimidating to start with is exactly what makes it so irresistable. A nearly uncategorisable cast of grape varieties (Ian D'Agata has made an excellent stab at the task if you are brave) can make delving in off-putting.

However some wines are special enough to deserve greater recognition and a few wine makers brilliant enough to single handedly rescue a variety from near extinction. Walter Massa is the 5th generation of his family making wine in Colli Tortonesi in Piedmont but the first to bottle it. In the '80s he started to experiment by making a wine from the 400 Timorasso plants scattered throughout his holdings. Amazingly this was half of all the Timorasso left at the time - a grape that once formed the backbone of Gavi before being replaced by the easier to grow but frequently dull Cortese.

Impressed at the wine's intensity his experiments continued in private until 1997, when he was finally happy. Then the hard work began of getting people to actually try and buy his wine. Impressed at the wine's intensity his experiments continued in private until 1997, when he was finally happy. Then the hard work began of getting people to actually try and buy his wine. Regulars will have met our good friend and Italian wine expert Michael Palij MW at our Mascarello tastings. Walter accosted him in a restaurant armed only with a glass of Derthona Timorasso and he fell for its charms. In turn, Michael has introduced us to it and we too have fallen under the spell of this unique wine. It has richness from a year on lees (mistaken by some for oak aging), minerality and acidity to ensure it ages beautifully. Drink a bottle over a couple of nights and watch it unfurl or better still squirrel it away for a couple of years and find out just how well Timorasso ages. /EE

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available immediately

To place an order, click on the wine name below, reply to this email, or call 020 7638 5998