Heat and cold: creating a top Chateauneuf-du-Pape vintage

'It's magical!' exclaimed Daniel Brunier when we tasted his 2016s together last week. We do meet winegrowers who are delighted with the results of their labours, though often they are reticent, but it is rare to come across somebody so genuinely excited about what nature has provided. From all of the Brunier family's exceptional terroirs they have retained 2016's gifts in their wines; the result is a cross between the legendary 1990 and 2010s. We found more minerality than in many vintages, more drive and energy, intense fruit flavours and above all balance. August makes the wine and rarely is this as true as it was in the Southern Rhone in 2016. The days were hot but the nights were cold and this variation is the character of the wines.

The two Les Pallieres wines from Gigondas display the perfume so typical of their terroirs with the slightly higher altitude Terrasses du Diable showing more red fruit. Both wines are around 85% Grenache and the Diable has 10% Mourvedre, while the Racines has more Syrah in the blend.

On home territory in Chateauneuf-du-Pape itself both their sites are very exposed. Vieux Telegraphe La Crau, which is their original, groundbreaking site, has power backing up its freshness and is a very complete and elegant wine, but is serious and will need at least 8 years in the cellar to fully express its complexity and potential. It is 65% Grenache and around 25% Mourvedre. Piedlong is 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre and comes from the highest part of Chateauneuf in the south and is a very stony and windy site. It used to provide a lot of the fruit for the defunct Roquete red but is so exceptional that since 2012 Piedlong has been made separately. We had the chance to taste the full vertical of this wine in Brunier hands and it is clear this is a site that truly reflects both terroir and vintage. The 2016 is saline and full of energy with great poise and elegance. /CW

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available autumn 2018