Power and elegance
Chateauneuf-du-Pape expresses itself
A mature bottle of Clos des Papes was the best wine I've ever had at Ma Cuisine in Beaune; it is not idle to compare Clos des Papes and Burgundy. Of all Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers, one of the most consistently high-quality is Clos des Papes' Burgundy-trained Vincent Avril, who makes famously silky, Pinot Noir-like wines. Vincent is a highly intelligent and curious vigneron who devotes his small Chateauneuf estate to just two wines, red (90% production) and white (10%).
2016 suits his style perfectly. As a vintage it combines power - a little like 2010 or (the legendary) 1990 - with freshness and elegance, which are his strong suit anyway. So these are such drinkable wines but are really intended for the cellar. Both the white and red really benefit from 10 years though they are delicious on release and in 2016 faithfully reflect both their terroirs and their grape blends. The red is predominately Grenache, though with 20% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah: both the latter are brilliant for making superbly balanced wines in these fuller vintages as they add to the freshness. 5% is made up of other local varieties that add to the cut of the wine. The white varieties were planted in the fifties and includes Clairette and Roussanne with Grenache Blanc, Picpoul and Bourboulenc, all in equal parts.
Vincent Avril may be one of the most lauded and respected winegrowers in France and he does not rest on his laurels. His wines continue to improve and biodynamic certification is just one indication of how much detailed work he commits to this enterprise. In 2016 you have a fabulous combination of grower, terroir and vintage. One not to miss. /CW
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available autumn 2018
