Rioja classicism
La Rioja Alta is not just one of the three sub-regions of Rioja; it is also the name of one of the wineries that made Rioja famous. In 1890, five Basque and Riojan families joined forces to found a winery on the Bordelaise model (or what they called the ‘Medoc method’). It was a boom time for Spanish wine. Spain was stepping up to fill the breach in wine production after the vineyards of France had been devastated by the phylloxera louse. La Rioja Alta has been on the scene since. In the modern era, it is recognised as a standard bearer for what is now thought of as a traditional model of Rioja. And the sweet spot in their range has always been Viña Ardanza.
Ardanza is only made in the best vintages. (They skipped 2013 and 2014). It is a blend of old-vine Tempranillo from the winery’s top La Cuesta and Montecillo vineyards, with 20% old-vine Garnacha from the high, barren, stony La Pedriza vineyard. The Tempranillo brings finesse and more floral, red fruit aromatics; the Garnacha brings structure, darker fruit and concentration.
2015 saw model vintage conditions, and winemaker Julio Saenz said he knew as they were bringing the grapes in that they would be making an Ardanza. It is listed as a ‘reserva’, but the aging regime means it could easily qualify for gran reserva status. After three years in American oak barrels and a further four in bottle, it is in a glorious place. The intense bouquet packs in cherry, raspberry, clove, nutmeg, coffee, vanilla and tobacco. The tightly-wound palate and supple tannins suggest it still has quite some way to go. /NT
'One of Rioja’s most famed bodegas, this 300-hectare estate was established in the heart of Haro in 1890. All of the vineyards are in Rioja Alta, unsurprising given the name. La Rioja Alta has a long-standing reputation for producing some of the region’s best, most traditionally made wines, across the range. Solid value is the rule here, from top to bottom. The entry-level wines are among Rioja’s best values. American oak is used exclusively, and its influence on the wines can be marked, even with age. While that style isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, Tempranillo fans of the old Rioja school, and there are plenty of them, are loyal followers of the estate with good reason. 94 points' - Josh Raynolds, vinous.com, April 2021
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available imminently
