The very different Noons from McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek.

Noon Winery is essentially a two-person operation. Everything is set up to be run by Drew Noon (one of only about two dozen Masters of Wine in Australia) and his wife Rae, with help from neighbours when it comes to harvest-time. The tiny estate is dry-farmed and biodynamic, though not certified, because 'we don't make a big fuss about it,' says Drew. In fact, the couple only have an open-top tractor, and 'if we sprayed anything on the vineyard we'd just get it straight in the face.'

Eclipse is a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Graciano from the Home Block vineyard which surrounds the winery. Their world-renowned Reserve Cabernet and Reserve Shiraz are from two single plots in nearby Langhorne Creek. All three are wines of intensity, purity and balance, as well as benchmarks of South Australia.

They describe the 2014 wines as small and high quality and are very happy with them. The harvest began with the Almond Block Shiraz in McLaren Vale in mid-February and extended over 9 weeks, finishing in late April with the Fruit Trees Cabernet in Langhorne Creek. The Eclipse is particularly intense this year due to the greater heat in the McLaren. By contrast, slow ripening in the Langhorne Creek wines added depth and elegance, and Drew describes it as perfect Cabernet. Quantities are limited, as ever. /CW 

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available December 2016

Special offer: 2+ cases £165 a case