2013 Vieux Telegraphe en primeur

Perfectly poised wines from an extreme site

Vieux Telegraphe is another star in the Chateauneuf firmament. The site is a legend in its own right. La Crau is a rocky plateau, high enough to have been the site of an 18th century optical relay station, the 'old telegraph' the wine is named after, and on this exposed site the vines have to deal with the full vagaries of hail, scorching sunshine and the Mistral as they struggle to put roots through the stony soils.

Severe the site may be, but there is nothing severe about the Brunier brothers' winemaking, which is all about balance. Rigorous selection takes place both in vineyard and then in cellar. They make careful judgements about whether to destem based on age, ripeness and variety. Varieties are vinified together, but the fruit of young and old vines is kept apart. They use a mix of large oak vats and stainless steel tanks. They describe their goal as achieving 'the balance specific to each vintage: a harmony between aromatic complexity, tannic structure and richness'.

On paper, 2013 looks like an average rainfall vintage, but that reflects a period of drought followed by heavy spring rains. This has imbued the 2013 Vieux Telegraphe with an attractive freshness that beautifully sets off the lush fruit and well-contained richness. Yields are low, but quality is high and the Bruniers are delighted with the results; these are harmonious, chiselled wines whose balance will permit long ageing. Daniel Brunier likens the style of the 2013 vintage to those of 1981 and 2001. While none of us here have tried the 1981, the 2001 was gorgeous, and is one of our favourite ever Vieux Telegraphe vintages. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available winter 2015