2013 Burgundy: Beaune, Pommard & Volnay

21 Jan 2015

Joseph Drouhin Grands Echezeaux

Undaunted by appalling storms

Behold, he cometh with clouds, says the book of Revelations, and with hail, even unto the seventh generation, as it doesn't say, but probably should if referring to the benighted area of the city of Beaune and her environs. Now Revelations is clearly nonsense and in no way deserves a place in the canon, but if the vignerons of the Cote de Beaune aren't irretrievable sinners, they must be feeling extremely persecuted. Three concurrent hail-blighted vintages are more punishment than anyone deserves. But in 2013 at least there was a little more production possible than 2012.

They are based in Pommard, but at Domaine Boillot they are really on a roll with their white wines. This is the second vintage in a row where the Chardonnay line-up has been notably high quality - and they are up against some stiff competition.

Comte Armand were 70% down on a 'normal' vintage in 2013. But they have fashioned a slightly earlier drinking and more supple style of wine from their excellent vineyards this year.

I must admit, I was slightly dreading the visit to Domaine Lafarge, anticipating an atmosphere of doom and gloom, given that they had around 35% of a normal harvest. But no, Frederic was quite upbeat and positive. Apart from the new purchase of some cru Beaujolais land, he was very pleased with the 2013 that he had made. And with good reason as there is balance, finesse and depth across the range. Frederic reminded us that the Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees comes from the heart of the village next to the best crus, and is convinced that their biodynamic certification was crucial to this success.

We were lined up to taste Domaine Drouhin wines in London, but very sadly the samples were stolen the night before. However all was not lost and we were able to sample a small representation from the domaine later. Very good work from this all-organic, part-biodynamic operation. They are a relatively large producer, but so well managed that across the board the wines are very high quality indeed. Veronique is a dynamo and the wines share her high energy levels. /CW

View the wines listed so far

STOCK UPDATE ALERT!
We have managed to secure a further small allocation of Damoy's sought-after Gevreys. Tiny amounts so move fast to secure. You can see what we have here.

Offered subject to remaining unsold for shipment 2015/16

Vintage Description Cs Sz Bt Sz Cs Bts Cs ib Cs inc Bt inc
2013 ready Joseph Drouhin Meursault Perrieres
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6x 75cl 1 0 £720.00 - - Buy
2013 drink or keep Joseph Drouhin Criots-Batard-Montrachet
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6x 75cl 1 0 £1,700.00 - - Buy