Benoit Droin, Christian Moreau

2012 is a vintage of war stories and Chablis didn't escape the excitements. They didn't suffer the extreme bombardments of hail that devastated vines and vignerons alike in the Cote de Beaune, but their northern geography and exposed sites fell victim to the late, deep cold of winter and the atrocious weather of flowering. Old vines suffer more than most from this last problem and since both our producers today have their fair share of these, their yields were disproportionately affected.

Benoit Droin runs a large estate very well. He is acutely aware of what is going on in his vines and has ample experience and lore to draw on in his decision-making. Hence, not to be contrarian, but to make the best wines possible, he began harvest at the end of August, where many colleagues were waiting for the rain, which when it arrived was too late anyway. So the grapes were just barely ripe - no bad thing in Chardonnay - and elevage has made the wines tingle with energy and given a fabulous ability to age. In connection with which, after trials in half bottles, Benoit is now bottling under DIAM corks for the added freshness and life they give his wines.

Fight! Fight! For Fabien Moreau at Domaine Christian Moreau didn't pick until the end of September - through into October. This organic property leverages the terroir beautifully. So if you don't understand what terroir is, (or what mineral is, for that matter) then just taste these oyster shell and chalk-laden beauties for a simple explanation. Like everybody, yields were much reduced and quantities are tiny. /CW