Not just quantity but quality, too, from Bordeaux yesterday, including over a quarter of the wines in Parker's "Magical 20" - wines of first growth quality which are under-valued and "very smart acquisitions": Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Clos Fourtet, Leoville-Poyferre, Rauzan-Segla, Pichon Lalande and Pichon-Baron.
Another wine which punches well above its weight is Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Relations between Xavier and brother Bruno are better than they were, and I wondered whether the new, incongruous artwork in the tasting room was a gift from Bruno. Or perhaps a reject from his collection at Ducru-Beaucaillou. 'Irrespective of the vintage, François-Xavier Borie makes some of the most under-valued wines in Pauillac. In 2011, this brilliant fifth growth has done it again, making a grand vin with elegance and restraint. A classic, claret drinker's Pauillac, with notes of incense, cassis, wood smoke and chocolate underpinned by freshness and verve. 10+ years. 95 points.' - Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com
Leoville-Barton is always one of the truest wines of Bordeaux - one of the most honest expressions of place. 'Beautiful garnet hue. Mature fruit on the elegant nose. Superbly broad and generous entry leading to a delicately fleshy palate - both voluptuous and linear- offering rich blackberry flavours. Rich complex finish with delicate scents and flavours coming to the fore. A stunner - reflecting the superb quality of the cabernet sauvignon. A blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 5% cabernet franc. The most striking feature remains its low alcohol content - a mere 12.5. Will be pure gold flowing seamlessly on your palate. Yield 36hl/ha. 92-93 points.' - Jean-Marc Quarin, quarin.com
But while Barton is nice, neighbour Leoville-Poyferre is naughty. There's always a hint of spice about Didier Cuvelier's wines, as if he imparts something of his own character to them. 'Another super effort from this estate, Leoville Poyferre's 2011 possesses an opaque purple color in addition to a ripe, fragrant nose of black currant fruit, cedar, white chocolate and a touch of oak. Rich, layered and medium to full-bodied with unmistakable elegance and purity, vibrant acids and a fresh, lively personality, it will need 3-4 years of cellaring and should keep for two decades. 91-94 points.' - Robert Parker, erobertparker.com
Finally, another St-Julien, a small property from one of the commune's big cheeses. Aston Martin-driving Jean-Louis Triaud, also the president of FC Girondins de Bordeaux, is the proprietor of Saint-Pierre and son-in-law of the late Henri Martin, the former mayor of St-Julien who bought the classed growth when he was a mere 78 years of age. It is the smallest estate in St-Julien and is often overlooked. /AR
Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request
