2011 La Tour de By en primeur

16 Apr 2012

I think Lafite dropped the phone this morning on hearing that La Tour had been released, missing the last part of the name. Either that, or they too have become big fans of La Tour de By, one of the stars of the northern Medoc. Frederic Le Clerc told us that they didn't start the harvest until the 28 September and it then lasted one month. The water shortage meant it took a long time to achieve the desired ripeness. Like their 1995, said Frederic, the 2011 is built for aging. It has higher concentration than the 2009 and 2010 and is a very pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 65% of the blend. The yield and production were similar to normal at 50 hectolitres a hectare and 4,000 cases respectively. It has lovely forest fruits, fine tannins, and represents outstanding value.

Whether or not today's release of Lafite represents value is already the subject of much debate. The quality level is at least the equal of 2008, and it was our favourite left bank first growth, though we didn't taste Latour. The negociants in Bordeaux received their first tranches this morning but are waiting for more information before making us their offers. At this stage, it looks likely that the price will be significantly below the current 2008 price, and about half that of the 2010, which I think means it will find buyers. Other chateau proprietors will be watching avidly to see how this is received and we should see the effect in the release prices of other big names before the end of the week. /AR

Halves & magnums £10 extra per 9 litre case; other formats on request

View all 2011 Bordeaux en primeur