Michet and marl: the ultimate Barolo expression?
Like Burgundy, Barolo at its best and most fascinating produces wines that have among their qualities a certain elusiveness. Nebbiolo from the best sites has an ethereal side - almost fey - and an amazing ability to age. This is especially true in the case of Giuseppe Mascarello, despite the characteristic pale colour and almost invisible structure of the wines. As slender and fine as spider silk, these wines need time to flesh out and display their best. But once they have, crus like the early drinking Villero and the more robust and structured Santo Stefano display depth, richness and even a density that belies their appearance.
Monprivato is a step up in terroir because of the unique qualities of its site. It is a classic chalky clay (or marl), which along with a southwest aspect is perfect for Nebbiolo, and especially the coveted Michet clone planted here. Michet is the perfume of Barolo, not so structured as some variants but it is the extensive plantings that contributes so much of the finesse and scent of the Mascarello wines. 2010 was a year of reduced yields so it is in short supply and will reward patience in large measure. Despite the scarcity and indeed rarity of this cru, we've managed to put together a deal for you.
Having worked with the family and drunk their wines over many years, we think that Mascarello is one of the brightest stars in Barolo's firmament. So who should buy them? We all certainly will. Barolo tifosi certainly will. You young people (!) building cellars definitely ought to think ahead and have them in your portfolios so they'll be ready when you are… /CW
Offered subject to confirmation for shipment spring 2015
