Barthod, Bertheau, Grivot, Gros, Hudelot-Noellat, Meo-Camuzet
A pair (for many people the pair) of Nuits villages. They vary, with Chambolles being quintessentially feminine and represented here by a woman of steely independence yet immense modesty and a gentleman with some of the best vineyards and the light touch to coax the very best from them. Vosne-Romanee can be more muscular and awkward when young and not for nothing did foremost Burgundy critic Allen Meadows' Pearl of the Cote - his first book - examine the village in detail.
A giggly Ghislaine Barthod greeted us and it was a very good humoured tasting. I think this year's wines have a wonderful balance of freshness, minerality and crushed fruit underpinned with a fine texture and the grip of a timid pucelle. Alas, loyal followers have already snapped most of it up.
Francois Bertheau is a new producer for us this year. With his roster of vineyards, we couldn't be happier that the wines lived up to expectation. These are wines of concentrated fruit whilst remaining ethereal and classic Chambolle. A gentle hand in the cellars ensures wines of purity that coalesce beautifully with the vintage.
A more relaxed Etienne at Domaine Jean Grivot this year, more himself, another empty cellar, more brilliant wines. Up earlier than us, Etienne has made representative blends of all his wines which sit on barrels in carafes. This is partly to mitigate the considerable reduction still detectable and partly to give us a better idea of what the finished wines will be like. Long, mineral, perfumed wines with fine textures but, in the Vosnes and Nuits at least, a little firmer and certainly very ageworthy.
A newish entity, Domaine Michel Gros was formed in 1979 when the young Michel bought a couple of hectares up in the Hautes Cotes to run alongside his family domaine responsibilities. Things really took off in 1985 when father Jean retired and Michel received his share of that domaine to add to his own land. Michel goes for finesse and was for many years a mainstay of our offering. Wines here are never chaptalised and the winemaking only seeks to allow the terroirs - and they are magnificent here - to shine through. A very seductive set of '10s.
Charles' wines at Hudelot-Noellat speak for themselves and are perfect examples of the delineation between the different villages and terroirs in the hands of one fastidious producer. Transparency rules with minerality occupying the neighbouring throne.
At Meo-Camuzet, Jean-Nicholas is also relaxed, modest, comfortable. On average down 25% here and comparing the vintage with 2008, though with riper fruit and slightly more mature fruit. The wines showed well across the board with that typical Meo silkiness. If you do get the chance, the premiers and GCs are amazing. /CW
Tomorrow
Nuits-St-Georges
Thursday 26 January
2010 Burgundy barrel sample tasting 12-8pm, £25 per person inc VAT (redeemable against 2010 Burgundy en primeur purchases over £500)
